PETROGNANO, TUSCANY — Over nearly 10 years of hosting Yonderlust tours – more than 70 trips and 1,500 people – I’ve watched the same thing happen. Strangers become familiar. Familiarity becomes friendship. Friendship becomes something I still don’t have a clean word for. Comunità, maybe.

Most of the transformation happens at the table. Every morning, breakfast is made in the villa. Claria handles the eggs and the morning. Over those breakfasts, people share more than a meal. They share their lives – kids, grandkids, worries. I call it “diggin’ up kin.”

We eat 21 meals together over the course of a week. Lunches and dinners are at local restaurants – places without English menus, places that don’t cater to tourists. That’s the real Tuscany.

By midweek, the group doesn’t feel like strangers. By week’s end, people exchange numbers and plan reunions. Some follow through. They visit each other, show up in hard times. That’s when you know it’s something more.

Onward.

A QUICHE FOR DAVID

Quiche is French in origin, so this recipe is probably an abomination to some. My friend David Trigiani is a dual-citizen Italian and is always taking a stand in the French food versus Italian food debate. My early culinary beginnings at the Purple Parrot Cafe in 1987 were influenced by French cuisine, as the “Larousse Gastronomique” was my bible. My main culinary geographic inspiration came from New Orleans. Though the older I have become – David would say the wiser I have become – I think I probably come down on the side of Italian cuisine as the superior fare. I certainly spend more time there than I do in France.
Heavy whipping cream is a must, and never buy pre-shredded mozzarella. Grate your own. The same goes for parmesan cheese. Never, I repeat never buy that powdery substance in the green can. Invest in a good grater and you’ll be a better cook for it.
David lives in Jackson, Mississippi, but spends most of his holidays in Italy. He’s an excellent cook, though I have never eaten quiche in his home. Maybe this will inspire him, and I’ll get an invitation.

Ingredients:
1 recipe pie dough
2 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup yellow onion, small dice
1/2 cup red bell pepper, small dice
1/2 cup green bell pepper, small dice
2 teaspoons garlic, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon dry oregano leaves
1/2 teaspoon dry basil leaves
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
9 large eggs
3/4 cup heavy whipping cream
1 1/2 cups mozzarella cheese, shredded
1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped
1/2 cup parmesan cheese, grated

Instructions:
■ Remove the prepared pie dough from the refrigerator. Lightly flour a clean working surface and place the dough in the center of the floured surface. Lightly dust the top of the dough as well. Begin in the center of the dough and roll upwards towards 12 o’clock, then downwards towards six o’clock. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repaeat the process. Apply more flour as needed to prevent the dough from sticking to the surface or the rolling pin. As your dough begins to resemble a circle, use the rolling pin to define the shape. Roll the dough into a 16-inch circle. Use the rolling pin to transfer the dough to your pie dish. Press the dough firmly on the bottom and up the sides of the pie dish. Using your fingers, crimp the dough along the top of the sides and trim off any excess dough. Chill in the refrigerator while making the filling.
■ In a medium-sized skillet, cook the Italian sausage over medium-high heat. Crumble well. Line a plate with paper towels. Use a slotted spoon to remove the sausage from the skillet and place it on the paper towels to drain. Drain the grease from the skillet and return it to the heat. Place the olive oil in the skillet and sauté the onions and peppers for four to five minutes, until the onions are translucent. Stir in the garlic, salt, oregano, dry basil, and black pepper. Cook for one minutes and remove from the heat. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and cream. Stir in the sausage, onion mixture, mozzarella cheese and fresh basil. Pour into the prepared pie shell. Top with parmesan cheese. Bake for 40 minutes then remove the quiche from the oven. Using aluminum foil, tent the sides of the crust and return the quiche to the oven for an additional 10 to 15 minutes. The center will jiggle just slightly when the edges is tapped when done.
■ Allow the quiche to rest for 20 minutes before serving.

CLASSIC PIE DOUGH

Every great pie starts with a great crust. And I’m convinced the best crusts are made with a combination of butter and lard. Butter gives you rich, satisfying flavor and flaky layers, while lard makes the crust tender and almost creamy. It’s the same approach generations of Southern cooks have relied on, and it’s the one that works best for me.
The combination of butter and lard is what makes this crust special. Butter adds flavor, while lard brings tenderness. It’s a throwback to the way pie crusts were made before Crisco became a household staple. And if you’re going to go through the trouble of making a homemade pot pie, you might as well do it right.
It’s important to keep everything cold. When the butter and lard stay cold until they hit the heat of the oven, that’s what gives you the perfect texture – flaky, tender, and golden. It’s worth taking the time to make this pie dough from scratch. It makes all the difference.

Makes enough for two 9-inch pie crusts (top and bottom)

Ingredients:
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, chilled
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar (optional, but it adds a subtle sweetness)
1/2 cup unsalted butter (1 stick), very cold, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 cup lard, very cold, cut into small pieces
1/2 cup ice water, plus more if needed

Instructions:
■ Combine the flour, salt, and sugar (if using) in a large mixing bowl. Chill the bowl and flour mixture in the refrigerator for 30 minutes before proceeding.
■ Add the cold butter and lard to the flour mixture. Using a pastry cutter, fork, or your fingertips, cut the fats into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pieces the size of small peas. Work quickly to keep the fats from warming.
■ Slowly drizzle the ice water into the flour mixture, starting with about 1/4 cup and mixing gently with a fork. Add more water, a tablespoon at a time, until the dough just begins to come together. It should be moist but not sticky.
■ Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it just enough to bring it into a ball. Divide the dough into two equal portions, shape each into a disc, and wrap tightly in plastic wrap.
■ Refrigerate for at least one hour, preferably overnight. The longer it chills, the easier it will be to work with.
■ When ready to use, roll the dough out on a floured surface to about 1/8-inch thickness. Proceed with your pie recipe.

Robert St. John is a restaurateur, author, enthusiastic traveler, and world-class eater from Hattiesburg, Mississippi. He has spent four decades in the restaurant industry, written 13 books, and written a syndicated newspaper column for more than 24 years. Read more about Robert at robertstjohn.com.