Chef Chris Ellis has taken on a Herculean task: changing a way of thinking. Specifically, Ellis hopes to convince us to cook for ourselves, instead of reaching by rote for processed foods in grocery freezers.

As the coordinator of Project CHEW (Cook Healthy, Eat Well) at Mississippi University for Women’s Culinary Arts Institute, Ellis’ role is to educate the community in using locally-sourced ingredients to promote healthier lifestyles and turn the tide of the state’s obesity rate. What better time than summer’s advent, with gardens coming in and farmers’ markets opening everywhere?

“And summer is one of the best times to cook healthy because we can all use our grills,” said Ellis, an early graduate of The W’s culinary arts program. “Whether it’s grilled meats, veggies or starches like corn and potatoes, we have ways to lower fat, salt and sugar very easily without sacrificing flavor.”

Closer to the dirt

Project CHEW works with high schools, community colleges and health care professionals, centered on foods and meats produced in Mississippi. Ellis focuses on quick meals with ingredients sourced as close to the farmer’s hand as possible. His rule of thumb? “The closer to the dirt, the better.”

Farm-to-table is nothing new to the chef. He employed the concept 13 years ago in his own establishment, just after his internship under Chef Chris Hastings at the Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham, Alabama.

“Back then, it wasn’t as widely known as a movement as it is now, but I am thankful for the strides that have been made in it,” Ellis remarked. “There is even a farm-to-school movement I would like to see us explore through the program.”

Summer cooking

The chef recently shared tips at The W with “A Night of Healthy Summer Cooking.” The demo was hosted by Passport to Wellness, a community-wide health initiative sponsored by the university in partnership with the Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Mississippi Foundation and area schools.

A fundamental of healthy cooking is understanding your ingredients and cooking methods, Ellis emphasized, adding that preparing foods as close to cooking time as possible is one of the best ways to minimize nutrient loss.

Understanding the roles of fat, salt and sugar are key, too.

Fats lubricate, add crispiness and have a satiating quality, and should be used with care and focus. They can include butter, oil, cream, animal fat (such as lard or bacon fat) and plant oils. Knowing fat’s function in any dish helps in determining whether it can be made with less fat without substantially changing the finished product.

“The most important rule to remember is that the type of fat used is much more important than the amount,” Ellis said.

Cream cheese in a cheesecake can be switched to reduced-fat cream cheese or Neufchatel. Evaporated skim milk might substitute in certain dishes for heavy cream. Fat in cream soups can be replaced. Leaner cuts of meat or poultry, or a meaty fish steak, can take the place of a high fat meat.

Cooking process can make a difference, too. Trade frying in for grilling or roasting. Fat drips off grilled and broiled meats, and is not used in pan sauces. Soups, stews and braises can be refrigerated overnight. The fat will rise to the top and solidify, making it easier to remove.

When it comes to salt, remember that the bright, sharp flavors of acidic foods often reduce the need for salt. Alternate ways to add salt flavor can include capers, olives, anchovies, soy sauce, fish sauce, mustard, green peppercorns and cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano.

Want to cook with less sugar? Capitalize on natural sugars present in many foods. Remember fruits are a source of sugar and packed with nutrients. Maybe your recipe is suited to honey, molasses or maple syrup. And caramelizing foods can enhance natural sugars. Cooking using a dry-heat method browns foods, creating deep, rich flavors.

Looking ahead

By the time autumn rolls around, Ellis should be rolling, too — in a 24-foot mobile kitchen complete with demo kitchen and audio visual equipment to take the message on the road. He also hopes to develop a Sustainability minor for The W’s culinary program.

“And one idea I would like to see play out in the future is us partnering with the mayor and city council in an effort to reclaim vacant lots in lower income neighborhoods and turn them into micro-farms and community gardens,” he proposed. ” … This is an idea we can make happen with very little resources and a small number of volunteers.”

In the meantime, Ellis’ tips for healthy summer cooking can lead, he hopes, to a healthier community year-round.

“That doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the foods the South is known for,” he remarked. “It just means we can’t have them all the time.”

See Ellis’ recipe for Greek pasta salad with tuna today. He likes to use tuna in packets, or grilled tuna steaks, to top it off.

“I place a bed of the dressed pasta salad in the center of a plate and top with crumbled tuna, mindful not to break the fish up too much,” he explained. Shave a little Parmesan cheese over the entire dish, sprinkle a pinch of sea salt, and crack some fresh pepper all around.

“During the summer, we keep this in the fridge, always made up, alongside the pimento cheese, egg salad and chicken salad,” said the chef. “When the kids come in off the beach or out of the pool, they have something they can enjoy quickly, off of paper plates, and it’s good for them.”

GREEK PASTA SALAD WITH TUNA

8-ounce box orzo pasta

16-ounce bottle Greek vinaigrette or salad dressing

Green olives, sliced or whole

Black olives, sliced or whole

Capers, brined, not salt cured

Feta cheese, for crumbling

Grape or cherry tomatoes

Tuna, in packs, or steaks

Parmesan cheese, sea salt, fresh cracked pepper to finish