I’ve never been especially strict about New Year’s food traditions. Some years I’ve eaten black-eyed peas because they were there; other years, not at all. But this season, I found myself thinking more about what we carry with us into a new year – the rituals we repeat, the meanings we attach to them and the small acts of hope we practice around the table.

Across the South and far beyond it, many families welcome Jan. 1 with a familiar plate: black-eyed peas, greens and pork. The combination is often described as a good-luck meal, but its roots run deeper than superstition.

In a 2021 New York Times column, food writer Kayla Stewart traces the origins of these New Year’s traditions, noting that Black American families have long embraced peas and greens as symbols of abundance, health and prosperity. Greens, often collards, are said to resemble folded paper money, while black-eyed peas represent luck and plenty. Pork, rich and flavorful, rounds out the meal as a sign of indulgence and forward movement.

While these dishes are closely associated with Southern cooking, scholars say the traditions themselves are the result of cultural blending that spans continents. Adrian Miller, a food historian and author, explains that collard greens originated in Northern Europe, while black-eyed peas are native to West Africa. The pairing of the two reflects the convergence of African and European foodways brought together through centuries of forced migration, adaptation and survival.

Food historian Jessica B. Harris has noted that while the greens themselves are European in origin, the African influence lies in how they are prepared – cooked low and slow, often with pork, and served with the potlikker that results. Over time, these methods became foundational to African American cuisine and, eventually, to Southern cooking as a whole.

New Year’s food rituals aren’t unique to the American South, either. In Italy, lentils – which resemble coins – are traditionally eaten for luck. Across cultures, the idea of beginning the calendar year with foods meant to invite prosperity is nearly universal, even if the ingredients change.

Among the many dishes tied to the New Year, Hoppin’ John holds a special place. Often confused with simple black-eyed peas and rice, Hoppin’ John is traditionally a one-pot dish made with field peas, rice and pork, rooted in the Carolina Lowcountry. Though variations abound today, the dish has long been associated with celebration, resilience and hope for what lies ahead.

That sense of hope may be why these traditions endure. As Miller told The New York Times, the ritual has lived on because it speaks to aspiration – the belief that no matter where you’re starting from, a brighter future is possible.

This year, I decided to lean into that idea by cooking a pot of Hoppin’ John myself. The dish appears in Toni Tipton-Martin’s cookbook “Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking,” where it is described as a meal historically eaten for good luck, prosperity and endurance.

The recipe I provide below requires you to prepare your beans ahead of time. Since this column is due to come out on New Year’s Eve, I’ll encourage you to go out and get canned peas. I hope I’m not wrong in promising you that your luck won’t change just because of this time-saving method.

I prepared this not because I expect it to magically deliver good fortune, but because there’s something grounding about participating in a tradition shaped by history, culture and intention. Even if luck is only symbolic, starting the year with a warm, nourishing meal feels like a good place to begin. And if you’re like my husband, you’ll up the ante with a warm slice of honey cornbread and a big scoop of mayonnaise thrown into your bowl.

HOPPIN’ JOHN

Original recipe from Toni Tipton-Martin; adapted by Ashlynd King
Serves: 8
Total time: About 1 hour 45 minutes, plus overnight soaking

Ingredients:
1 pound dried black-eyed peas, picked over, rinsed and soaked overnight (or, if you’re short on time and energy, canned peas work just fine.)
3/4 pound salt pork or bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 small onion, chopped
2 large garlic cloves, minced
6 cups chicken stock, homemade or store-bought
1/2 cup diced ham (about 2 1/2 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Salt and black pepper
1 cup long-grain rice

Directions:
■ Drain the soaked black-eyed peas and set aside.
■ In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, cook the salt pork over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp and the fat has rendered, about 6 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook until softened and fragrant, about 3 minutes.
■ Stir in the chicken stock, black-eyed peas, diced ham and red pepper flakes. Season with about 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat, cover and simmer gently, skimming any foam that rises to the surface, until the peas are tender, about 1 hour. If you use canned peas, simmer just a minute or two. Avoid overcooking the already cooked peas.
■ Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Stir in the rice, cover and return the pot to a simmer. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes.
■ Remove from heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving.

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