I had a dream the other night, vivid enough to wake me so I could text myself a morning reminder. However, the next morning I found this message on my phone: “pit t soi imdian mods.” It took a while to figure out that it was a reminder that, decades ago while working in the MSU horticulture greenhouses, we used soil partly excavated from ancient Indian mounds.
I remember questioning the archaeological and cultural implications of destroying ancient relics just to grow throwaway poinsettias. The answer I got was, “Yeah, we use it because it is easy to dig.” But not to worry — it turned out the soil came from piles of rubble left over after researchers had carefully sifted through small earthen mounds containing mostly mussel shells, broken pottery, animal bones and the like.
Very few gardeners use actual dirt in potting soil anymore because it packs down and gets hard. Besides, modern soilless mixes perform quite well. Trouble is, it doesn’t take long to learn that with store-bought potting soils, you get what you pay for. Some use mostly cheap bark or chipped wood, which dries out quickly.
The best store-bought potting soils contain some finely ground bark for bulk, long-lasting peat moss to hold moisture and nutrients, and a little perlite – white, crunchy stuff made by heating and “popping” volcanic ash – or grit to keep the mix loose and aerated as other ingredients decompose.
By the way, I know that England’s garden guru Monty Don and other garden writers are lockstep against peat moss. That’s because European peat has largely been depleted. Here in North America, however, we have millions of acres of peat fields – more than can ever be used – and harvested peatlands quickly revert to their natural state. As an independent international peat moss inspector, I can go into detail, but the bottom line is that peat moss is abundant here and its use is not destroying the environment.
Transportation costs aside, it is also far less disruptive to the environment than coconut coir. Really.
Many gardeners, myself included, simply make our own blends. While there are as many potting soil recipes as there are gardeners, most use the same basic ingredients: bark, peat moss and perlite. Very few ever use sand or vermiculite.
My basic mix, which I store in trash cans, is inexpensive and works well for all kinds of plants: three parts bark, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. If I need more bulk, I add bark. For better moisture retention, I add peat moss. For improved drainage, I add more perlite or grit.
Keep in mind that all potting soils – being mostly organic matter – gradually break down and lose their effectiveness, so it’s important to repot plants occasionally. To feed my plants, I often scatter a handful of compost, which provides a richness commercial fertilizers lack. Once a year, I also use a half-strength dose of slow-release fertilizer beads, plus an occasional shot of liquid fertilizer.
Lastly, whether indoors or out, I always mulch my potted plants to reduce water loss in sun or low humidity and to foil harmless but annoying little gnats feeding on decaying organic debris. I water twice, a few minutes apart, to thoroughly soak the soil, then leave it alone until plants are nearly dry.
My potted plants seem happy, leaving me to just dream about digging dirt from the past.
Felder Rushing is a Mississippi author, columnist and host of “The Gestalt Gardener” on MPB Think Radio. Email gardening questions to [email protected].
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Quality, in-depth journalism is essential to a healthy community. The Dispatch brings you the most complete reporting and insightful commentary in the Golden Triangle, but we need your help to continue our efforts. In the past week, our reporters have posted 36 articles to cdispatch.com. Please consider subscribing to our website for only $2.30 per week to help support local journalism and our community.



