I know when it comes to seasonal cooking, you don’t think, “Ahh, yes, summer … the perfect time for a meatball.”

Perhaps it’s the meatball’s longstanding relationship with marinara sauce and spaghetti, or perhaps it’s their general heartiness and savoriness that keeps them firmly placed in a cozy food category.

But this week, I’m bringing you a recipe that might challenge your preconceived meatball notions, just as it did mine.

This past week, when I saw the peach man set up in front of the old CVS in Columbus, I knew I needed to grab a basket. I hadn’t bought any yet, and I knew I was seeing some of the very last of the season.

Upon getting my sweet summer haul home, I decided that, even more than a dessert or sweet treat, I really wanted to use them in a dinner recipe.
I did some research and stumbled across Melissa Clark of NYT Cooking’s Skillet Meatballs With Peaches, Basil and Lime.

Meatballs are so versatile and easy, and this recipe was unlike anything I had seen before, so I went for it. And I’m so glad I did – the results were fantastic, and this will become a part of my mental recipe filing system.

With fresh basil from my garden, ground cumin and ginger, this recipe is fresh and complex. The peach pan sauce really sets it apart, and the combination of fresh peaches and a giant squeeze of lime juice gives this meal a tangy, bright summer feel.

You can make these gingery meatballs with any kind of ground meat (or vegan meat), but I used a rich Duroc ground pork from Kroger. I don’t often indulge in pork these days, but I tend to think pork makes the best meatball, especially for Asian-influenced dishes that include ginger.

Pork, in my opinion, is great at taking on the characteristics of its seasonings. Because of that, I find that it goes especially well with juicy peaches and fresh basil.

Also, this might read as unusual, but I once heard a tip from an Indian friend that a few tablespoons of yogurt dropped into your meatball mixture will keep them super moist – hence my addition of plain yogurt to this recipe.

You want your peaches (or nectarines) to be very soft so they cook quickly and very sweet so they contrast with the savory meatballs and tangy lime juice. I made sure to let my peaches sit on the counter for a few days until they were overripe and practically leaking nectar all over my counter.

Just cut out any obviously browned spots before throwing the remaining flesh into your skillet, where it will dissolve with the wine and drippings from the meatballs.

I don’t peel my peaches because I don’t mind the fuzz, but you can peel yours if you like. Or, as mentioned earlier, just use fuzz-free nectarines. Some folks might argue that they’re better than peaches anyway (not me, of course, but some folks).

Brown rice, rice noodles, angel hair pasta – all of these options will complement the meal perfectly. Or, if you want something lighter, a crisp salad would really seal the summery supper deal.

Clark, the recipe developer, added a note that as peach season fades, this recipe also works well with plums. She said to just lessen the amount of lime juice since plums already come a little more sour. I personally found this recipe so unique and delightful that I’m already looking forward to giving the plum substitution a try.

As peach season fades and our precious, perfect fresh stone fruit disappears, you can still brighten up your fall and winter days by using frozen peaches. Just make sure to thaw and drain them well before tossing them in.

I’m sure no one will be sad to see this meal set down on the table later in the year. It’s simply a reminder of how good we’ve got it during the summer!

MEATBALLS WITH PEACHES, BASIL AND LIME

Adapted from Melissa Clark’s Skillet Meatballs With Peaches, Basil and Lime

Yield: 3 to 4 servings

Ingredients:
1 1/2 tablespoons finely grated or minced fresh ginger
3 garlic cloves, grated or minced
1 1/4 teaspoons red pepper flakes (optional)
1 1/4 teaspoons ground cumin, plus more for serving
1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
1 pound ground pork (or turkey, chicken or vegan meat)
1/3 cup panko or other plain bread crumbs
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil, plus basil leaves for serving
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons wine (dry white, rosé or red), or substitute broth, orange juice or water
2 cups diced ripe peaches or nectarines (about 3)
1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions
1 lime, halved
White rice, coconut rice, rice noodles or crisp salad greens, for serving

Directions:
■ In a large bowl, mix together ginger, garlic, red pepper flakes, cumin and salt. Add pork, panko, yogurt and basil. Using your hands, gently mix everything together, making sure not to overwork the mixture. (Otherwise, the meatballs will become tough.) Form into 1 1/4-inch balls.
■ Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and allow it to heat until it thins out. Add the meatballs in one layer. Cook, turning and shaking the pan, until meatballs are browned all over, 5 to 7 minutes.
■ Pour the wine into the skillet and move the meatballs to one side of the pan, scraping up the browned bits. Add the peaches, a pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons water to the empty side of the pan.
■ When peaches are simmering, cover the pan, lower the heat to medium and cook until the meatballs are no longer pink at their centers and the peaches are juicy and tender, about 5 to 10 minutes longer.
■ Uncover the pan. If the mixture seems too runny, let it cook down for another minute or so. The peaches should break down into a chunky sauce. Hard or underripe peaches may take a few extra minutes.
■ Add the onions to the pan and mix them in so they wilt slightly. Squeeze lime juice over everything, then taste and add salt and lime juice as needed. Sweeter peaches will need more lime juice; tart peaches will need less.
■ Serve the meatballs sprinkled with more cumin and garnished with torn basil leaves over rice, noodles or salad greens.