Thanksgiving has now passed, and Christmas is fast approaching, which raises that perennial holiday beverage controversy: What is the favored Christmas Holiday’s libation, eggnog or milk punch?
About nine years ago I wrote about favorite local recipes for eggnog and milk punch. I have pulled from that article and delved deeper into the world of Christmas cheer.
In West Point, Danny Rainey is unequivocal that the Christmas season calls for eggnog. He uses his Uncle David’s recipe, which was said to be an old Tuscaloosa recipe. Danny explained that you start with a fifth of bourbon, a fifth of rum and a fifth of brandy, and if you are not careful it will only make a pint of eggnog.
In Columbus, Mary Margaret Roberts recalled, “Rufus, over on this branch of the tree, it’s boiled custard with add-ins of bourbon or amaretto for those so inclined. Grandmother made fabulous boiled custard and used to bring two gallons for Christmas dinner at our house. Just thinking about it makes me want to get in the kitchen and start stirring.”
Marleen Hanson commented, “My father made his own recipe for eggnog, but we have also tried the Westmoreland Club recipe (Richmond, Virginia), and it was amazing. Had to add another making of the ‘egg’ because the ‘nog’ was double trouble!”
Some people just have a different view of the whole eggnog or milk punch question. Robert White once commented that he preferred eggnog over milk punch but had really rather have a Bloody Mary.
I decided to add to those comments by asking a few Southside friends how they liked to start a holiday morning:
Joe and Carol Boggess make a bourbon milk punch recipe based on a Commander’s Place brandy milk punch recipe.
David and Renee Owen firmly believe in eggnog for the holidays.
Tango and Lee Ann Moore also prefer eggnog.
Robby and Francis Glenn are another eggnog family.
Keith and Gaines Gaskin like eggnog but have nothing against milk punch.
Dixie Butler cares for neither and likes a good cup of coffee instead.
William Roberts says he prefers boiled custard for his holiday beverage.
Nancy Carpenter says a Poinsettia adds a savory touch to a Christmas morning.
Eggnog and milk punch both have deep Southern roots. In Mark Kurlansky’s wonderful history of American food, “The Food of a Younger Land,” he quotes Jack Kytle about an Alabama eggnog: “An Alabama eggnog is one that caresses the palate with velvety gentleness, and then once it is within the stomach, suddenly becomes the counterpart of a kicking mule.” One advantage that the typical eggnog has over milk punch is that a good eggnog is just as tasty even without the mule’s kick being added.
The oldest recipe for a milk-based party drink I have found used in an old Columbus cookbook (the 1825 “Virginia Housewife”) was a non-alcohol drink called an orgeat. It is probably ancestral to the modern Mai Tai or a Planter’s Punch. The drink was called “a necessary refreshment at all parties.” The recipe continues: “Boil two quarts of milk with a stick of cinnamon, and let it stand to be quite cold, first taking out the cinnamon; blanch four ounces of the best sweet almonds, pound them in a marble mortar with a little rose water …” The strained almonds would then be mixed with luke-warm milk.
By the early 1800s eggnog and milk punch were both popular Christmas-time drinks in Southern homes. In 1853 the Woodville Republican reported, “Christmas comes but once a year (said) the merrymaker while he piles high the blazing fire and listens right well pleased, to the music of ringing glasses or smacks his lips over his usual Christmas ‘Egg Nogs.’ A merry merry season indeed.”
“Diddie Dumps and Tot,” which is Louise-Clarke Pyrnelle’s 1882 account of growing up on an ante-bellum plantation near Selma, Ala., tells of a pre-Civil War Christmas party. “The supper was enjoyed hugely, particularly a big bowl of eggnog.” A typical Old Alabama eggnog contained only eggs, sugar, whiskey and whipped cream. Whiskey was added in the proportion of two tablespoons for each egg used.
In the Dec. 4, 1875, Canton Mail there was a recipe for milk punch given in the Household Hints column. “Milk Punch – Half a pint of new, rich milk, with some cream, three tablespoons of brandy, sugar, and nutmeg to taste.” Tom Merrlman of Mobile advertised on December 24, 1870, that anyone who came to his “Arcade House” for lunch and fresh oysters would receive a free “Egg Nog.”
An 1884 cookbook, “Breakfast, Luncheon and Tea,” contains a popular recipe for milk punch. It was called Rum Milk Punch and stated: “1 cup of milk warm from the cow, 1 tablespoon of best rum, 1 egg, whipped light with a little sugar, a little nutmeg. Pour the rum upon the egg-and-sugar; stir for a moment and add the milk; strain and drink.” Sounds a lot like what is called eggnog. The recipe calls it a good drink before breakfast.
Eudora Welty’s ”Mother’s Eggnog” contained 6 beaten egg yolks, 3 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 3 cups of whisky, all beaten while adding 1 pint of whipped cream. The egg whites would then be whipped in. Nutmeg could then be added. Maybe in spite of opinions the only real difference between eggnog and milk punch is whether or not egg is added to a basic milk punch.
And my favorite: At Christmas we always have a milk punch that is a combination of a recipe from my grandmother’s 1942 hand-written family recipe book and a recipe Virginia Hooper shared with my parents around 1950.
The recipe we use is: 2/3 quart of good bourbon, 1/3 quart of brandy, 1/2 quart of rum, 2 quarts of milk, 1 quart half-and-half, 10 Tablespoons of powdered sugar. Mix all ingredients and chill. Nutmeg may be sprinkled on top before serving. It makes about 30 servings. A warning though: One year at a pre-midnight mass Christmas party, a member of the church choir enjoyed one too many. She made it to church to sing in the choir but unfortunately fell asleep during the service and started snoring.
Rufus Ward is a Columbus native a local historian. E-mail your questions about local history to Rufus at [email protected].
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